Just an update to the possible broken shift stopper lever. Well a while ago I posted some people making aftermarket ones that replaced the bearing with a solid roller cause the bearing was breaking. They all wanted like $75 for the part forget them and just go buy the like $8 OEM part for an '07 model. Yamaha upgraded the part to the solid roller design.

The two parts that it changed was the stopper lever and the mounting bolt.

Part number??
Ive replaced this same part on a KTM125 and a CR125.

2007 Stopper Lever: 1C3-18140-10-00
2007 Stopper Lever Bolt: 90109-06193-00

2006 Stopper Lever: 1C3-18140-00-00
2006 Stopper Lever Bolt: 90109-063F8-00

I just got the new parts in the mail today and yup it's a solid roller design now the bolt head looks like it has a little bit more of flanged head also.

Craig Russel, this is what you need!

Yea and someone tell glen spangler for me after he told me what happened to his '05 buying an '06 won't fix it

I guess the part in the tranny (can't recall the name) has those 2 little metal tabs and springs under came undone and his bike locked into gear. The shift stopper lever limits how far you can move the lever up n down when i breaks this is just one of the problems that can happen if not worse. REPLACE IT it's only like $10 from yamaha.

Is it also true that on late model YZ250s (like 05 -07) that the transmission oil level check bolt is in the wrong spot and you are not supposed to use it? I heard that you just ignore it and use about .8 quarts instead.

That is correct. I have a 03 YZ250 and the check hole is way off. I emailed Motocross Action Mag and they confirmed the same thing. They said just drain completely and measure out what the service manual says for volume and forget about the check hole.

Thanks, I just sold my 05 to my buddy and I never knew that. I always thought that it didn't take enough oil so I would put the check screw back in and add a little bit extra but I was just guessing.

bump

Then after you replace the shifter stopper lever you need a Pro Circuit Pipe,Silencer and VForce 3. I have them

Acutally to add to this you should get an after market clutch basket! OEM baskets are known to crack n break around the center drive gear! They are alittle to thin here this is a most do for modified bikes.

quote:

OEM baskets are known to crack n break

Why do they break? Is it a design flaw, maybe manufacturing. "a little to thin" makes sense but then why are aftermarkets better. Are they thicker. Isn't that a cast area. Maybe they're made outta better raw materials. Humm...one ponders the possibilities.

No one knows but that was the best reasoning on why it happens. Some thought it was added compression and when it kicks back but it has happened on stock bikes as well.

Did you break that Joe?

Junk aluminum castings with not enough radius at the hub transition. When I swapped baskets on my KX I tried to knock of the gear and broke it the same way. Aftermarket baskets are billet and sufficient radii to lower the stress.

I read that Hinson is coming out with a line of steel baskets to give a little fly wheel effect.

No I didn't break that basket my '06 has been the opposite no problems with mine. But I put in a wiseco basket and GYTR hub / pressure plate a long time ago.

I have put cranks in many 06 or newer YZ125 and have never seen a clutch basket break like that. It the case of them breaking, I wonder the size of the rider? A 200lb rider on a 125 would have MUCH more strain on motor parts than a 110lb rider.
I have seen many of these arms with the bearing that break apart. Thats why I try to keep this post on top. I have a YZ125 motor in my shop that has the bearing out right now.
Keep those chainsaws (125s) running!!!
BRAPPPP
EW

I doubt the wieght of the rider has anything to do with it but I haven't been ridding the small bore lately been ridding the YZ 250 (not F!) Starting to like the 250 so much I'm thinking I might sell my '06 YZ 144

Hey i'm burnin thru clutches on an 06 YZ125 I'm 190 pounds yea i know too heavy, but run what you brung right, do you gearheads recomend stock or aftermarket and if aftermarket which one? thanks